Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Vietnam — 13, First Evening in Hanoi

From the bus station, we made our way a few kilometers to Thuy's house through crazy traffic, which you could see in the video. There, Thuy found us a hotel on the internet called New Sun Hotel (the site is down, per Vietnamese custom), located at 9B ngo 67 Van Cao, Ba Dinh district.

By the way, there are "only" 6.5 million residents in Hanoi, and even then, the majority are in the surrounding villages. The city was founded in 1010.

Hotels here are relatively expensive — about 20 bucks a room, or even per person. True, the quality is also a bit better — everything is tidier, fewer broken things, cleaner, an LCD TV,  toilet paper in a box that protects it from the shower. But the toothbrushes are exactly the same — impossibly flimsy.

The next day we were heading to Ha Long Bay, so we only needed the room for one thing — just to crash until 4-5 AM.

A winding dirt road goes into the distance through green fields and hills. Numerous power lines stretch across the landscape under a bright sky. 

Hotel decorations

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An awesome Buddha sits by the furniture store

After successfully checking into the hotel, Thuy took us out to show us a spot that serves excellent buns. As it turned out, it's a joint with a tricky "Steakhouse" format, but they call just fried meat in cast-iron skillets "steaks". It's called Ngoc Hieu, the link has reviews and the address.

Various seasonings and sauces are arranged on a metal tray: a metal salt shaker, bottles of sauces, a small carafe with a dark liquid, and a transparent jar of pickled vegetables. A pot and a sign with Vietnamese text and «PEPSI» written on it are visible in the background.

This is what they brought us for the "steak"

Sizzling fried meat, a sunny-side-up fried egg, golden slices of fried dough, sliced tomatoes, and green onions are served on a hot cast-iron skillet.

Korean flank-style

 A bright pink menu booklet for «Pekara Grill Pejović "Dollar" Mojkovac» lying on the dark grainy surface of a table. Part of the cover is heavily overexposed from a flash or bright light.

The price tag

Prices are inhumane — I ate the Korean style, it costs 3.5 lats (7 bucks). Granted, it comes with bread and delicate mayo, plus vegetables in a spicy vinegar sauce or Thousand Islands, depending on the dish). At the bottom of the menu are soups, but they're solid, even though they cost 1.15 Ls (over two bucks) a pop. Everything is tasty, albeit greasy, they bring it out fast, and the bread is genuinely great.

A glowing neon sign for the Vietnamese restaurant «NGỌC HIẾU» against the night sky, situated above a tiled awning roof. 

Here's what the restaurant is called. The street is still the same — Van Cao, not far from the hotel

A display case with several rows of variously decorated cakes. Chocolate glaze, cream patterns, flowers, and berries are visible on them.

We popped in to buy dessert too

 A golden display case with a «Poeme Handmade Cake» sign in red and blue letters on top; people are reflected in its glass doors, and buttons and a digital thermometer are visible on the control panel.

The capital is the capital, everything is serious

Two women in uniform with yellow headwear are working behind a pastry shop counter. One holds a box of Poeme pastries, while the other is packing something into a bag using a spoon.

The logo, branded boxes, girls in little caps

 A pastry shop display case with a variety of cakes and desserts, above which is a sign reading «Poeme Homemade Cake». To the left behind the counter stand two female employees in white uniforms and headwear.

Some cakes are original — with green tea

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They sell all sorts of things on the street, seafood and stuff

Later I walked around some more, and popped into a youth cafe called "Kira", on the same Van Cao street, between the hotel and the steakhouse. There were sociable girls  (the staff), delicious ice cream, and cheap, tasty cocktails made with real Western booze. But we drank those another time.

I went into the cafe because they had a sign on the door saying "We have fancy ice-cream". I fell for it, and didn't regret it.

A smiling girl with long brown hair in a white t-shirt shows a "peace" sign (V-shaped sign with fingers), sitting at a table. To her right sits a second girl in a blouse with a bright paisley pattern, looking away. 

Johi even friended me on Facebook

Close-up of a dessert: ice cream in a glass bowl with chocolate sauce, whipped cream, and a square wafer stuck in it. A glass of water and a bottle of La Vie are also on the wooden table nearby.

Ice cream

 An internal staircase with wooden handrails, next to the steps photographs hang on a light green wall. On the wall to the right, a large dark silhouette of a person is depicted, with numerous small silhouettes climbing on it.

I didn't go to the second floor, but judging by the photos from Facebook, it's cool up there

Three white signs with large red letters making up the word «KRA» are fixed to the wall of the room. Below stand a white desk fan and a black floor fan, as well as wooden tables and chairs.

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Johi explains  to me why the cafe is called "Kira" — it means "Sparkling" in Japanese

 Two young men sit at a wooden table in a cafe: one is eating, the other is looking out a large window, behind which neon signs and reflections are visible. Posters with red letters and small decor hang on the light wall.

There were few people in the cafe, but Johi treated me to mangoes. Unripe mangoes are dipped in salt, almost like we do with cucumbers

A young Asian man and woman smile behind the reception desk of the «New Sun Hotel». The girl is wearing a striped black and red sweater, and the guy is in a brown sleeveless shirt with the inscription «HISTORIC ROUTE SIXTYSIX».

This is Ha from the hotel, and I don't remember the guy's name

Ha spoke English, and although she didn't know a lot, she wrote everything down in a little notebook. The rest explained themselves with gestures.

A TV on a wooden shelf in the room broadcasts a weight loss TV show featuring a man and his weight stats on the screen. A bed covered with a white blanket is visible in the foreground, and a floor fan stands next to the door in the background.

A fat people show is on in the room

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Green tea cake

 A white cake box with a brown top, decorated with the inscription «Poeme Handmade Cake» in English and Japanese, as well as an image of a violin with musical notes.

The box from the pastry shop. The URL works, by the way, but there's no English there, though there is Japanese

A small carved wooden altar of red-brown color is decorated with golden Buddha statues and numerous offerings. A vase with burnt incense and ash, offering cups, drinks, and a plate of garlic are visible on it.

The promised altar

As I've already mentioned, many Vietnamese have altars where they place offerings to ancestors, spirits, Buddha, and so on. Here you can see what they lay out. This is the altar in the hotel. The "Kira" cafe had one too, and there was 100 dollars lying on it, looking completely real. Big money, but taking it from an altar means bringing great misfortune upon yourself.

A dark reception desk of a hotel or office, illuminated by niches and ceiling lights. Above it are five world time clocks, the New Sun Hotel logo, and vases with flowers, and to the left is a small altar.

Clocks in the hotels, as usual

In a bright room with a tiled floor, there is a dark brown wooden sofa with striped upholstery and a coffee table with a white teapot and cups. A black floor fan and luggage are visible on the left. 

I won't even mention the tea

 A dark, very narrow passage between buildings. On the left is a rough brick wall, on the right is a gray plastered one, with a «HOTEL» sign and a red arrow. Deep down, illuminated hotel signs are visible, pointing the way.

To get to the hotel, you have to walk through narrow, slum-like alleyways